Mountaineering in Alaska remains one of the most challenging activities available to visitors of the state. It allows travel to some of the most spectacular mountain and glacier landscapes found on earth. Beyond the climbing challenges of rock walls and mountain ridges, mountaineers must contend with a range of variables. They are heavily crevassed glaciers, altitude, arctic climates accentuated by elevation, huge ice fields, ice falls and avalanches.

Much of the outside interest on climbing in Alaska centers around Denali (Mt McKinley), the highest peak in North America at 20,320'. Alaska offers hundreds of peaks to mountaineers across the state. The Alaska, Wrangell, St. Elias, Chugach, Brooks and Coast Ranges form the major areas where most climbing is done in Alaska. Frequent and long-lasting storms packing winds of more than 100 mph can be encountered. Temperatures may drop to -20 or -30F even during late spring and early summer, peak climbing season for many areas of the state.

The guiding companies listed below can provide not only guiding services to these spectacular regions of Alaska but can also provide valuable insight into visiting these magnificent special places.

Recommended Publications...

1. Climbing Alaska. Alaska Geographic
   Volume 25, Number 3, Quarterly. 1998. This combination of historical first ascents and contemporary issues takes a look at some of the world's most perilous peaks and those who dare climb them.
   
   
2. Alaska Ascents
   1996. Edited by Bill Sherwonit. Foreward by Fred Beckey. This book takes readers to all of Alaska's major mountain systems and provides accounts to many of its highest peaks- Denali, St. Elias, Fairweather, Foraker, Hunter, Mooses's Tooth, Devil's Thumb and the Kichatna Spires. It tells the stories of mountaineers facing the challenges of Alaska's mountains, some of the most inaccessible and difficult to climb in North America.
   
   
3. Denali Climbing Guide
   R.J. Secor. The most comprehensive guidebook to climbing McKinley, featuring complete descriptions of 40 climbing routes to the summit of Denali.
   
   
4. To the Top of Denali
   Bill Sherwonit. Mt. McKinley climbing stories and tales of adventure. Includes historical and contemporary photos, route diagrams and maps.
   
   
5. Minus 148
   Art Davidson / Introduction David Roberts. This is a true Alaska classic! The story of the first winter ascent of Mt. McKinley in 1967, a gripping read for climbers and non-climbers alike. A tale of courage, loss, success and remembering.
   
   
6. Denali's West Buttress
   1997. Colby Coombs. Describes in detail the route used by 90 percent of all climbers who summit Denali. Provides photos by Brad Washburn outlining the route, describes specific hazards and obstacles as well as reviewing the necessary preparations before undertaking the climb.
   
   
7. Surviving Denali - A Study of Accidents on Mt. McKinley
   1903-1990. 1991. Jonathan Waterman. Reviews high altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema, frostbite, climbing falls, crevasse falls, avalanches and preparations for climbing Denali.
   
   

* Note the most above publications are available through the Alaska Natural History Association at 907-271-3290.

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